Kerala Day 8: Soaking in More of Munnar; Venturing into Marayoor

Early morning, after a hearty breakfast at Saravana Bhavan (we were old-time patrons there by now!), we set off for Mattupetty Dam, which we had seen so memorably from the Munnar Hills the previous day. Our driver serendipiteously dropped us at the left corner of the dam, which allowed us to avert rather neatly the teeming mass of tourists that clogged the dam itself, along with the various stores that lined it. We walked off through some forested areas along a twisty path that wound itself all the way up to the Chottukunadu Tea Estate. It was an idyllic stroll through the main roads of this estate, hugging the Madupetty Dam on one side, and the steep tea-filled slopes on the other. There was life all around us. Tea workers weeding and fertilizing the fields, others picking the tea plants, tiny trucks carting new tea saplings or workers to various fields, and ladies on their way to work at the Assistant Manager's bungalow that abutted one of the fields. There was also the odd mini-waterfall and the merry morning chirping (and occasional sighting) of various birds, and beautifully scented air. It was our own mini-paradise.

But we couldn't go on forever. Eventually we turned back and after 2 hours of serenity, we found ourselves back at the rather rumbustuous bridge, which was chock-a-block with exuberant and voluble college students, some of whom seemed bent on teetering into the Dam itself. We beat a hasty exit and drove off on the renowned Top Station road..

Our next port of call was the Kundala Dam, surrounded by deep Shola forests. Unfortunately, we had lost our race with the college kids. Within about 20 minutes of our arrival at that dam, a whole host of them descended on us, puncturing the air with their excited shrieks and yells. Vijay was determined to boat on the dam. Chitra in true doting mother mode had total apoplexy with visions of Sarvesh (especially) tumbling into the expansive Kundala waters. We compromised with about 20 minutes of peddle boating, with Vijay propelling and Shobhita as arch-navigator. It was about the lowest key environment you can imagine, but that didn't assuage Chitra's trepidations and the 3 boaters were treated to her sporadic yelps whenever Sarvesh leant forward or stuck his hand out of the peddle boat

By the time we got to Top Station, we were feeling fully satiated with Munnar landscape and walking through a final, high altitude tea landscape with beautiful views of the Tamil flat lands beyond the ridges was quite magical. Low-lying clouds moving into the valleys in mid-afternoon flirted with the landscape, sometimes obscuring our view, and sometimes parting to let in the sun. We sauntered along until we had truly filled our sensual coffers before bidding farewell for Munnar and setting off for Marayoor.

We had read that the route between these two towns is one of the most spectacular in the Western Ghats. But since we were fresh off some quite amazing vistas in Munnar, we wondered if this could be reality or just internet hyperbole. The first half of this mountain drive continued the theme of tea plantations - pretty, but nothing new. But as we passed over some ridges, the landscape turned decidedly more wild. Sheer mountain slopes, often encrusted in dense foliage, dotted with untamed waterfalls. And patches of disshevelled roads to which our maniacal driver seemed completely oblivious. It was a wonder we didn't land up in a waterfall ourselves! Heavy clouds added a touch of mystery to the landscape, intoxicating in its blend of stone, water, and grass. We caught our breath when we turned a corner to chance upon an awe-inspiring tableau with acres of slopes leading up to a crashing waterfall. After gaping open-mouthed for a few minutes, we both declared this to be a worthy entrant into our top 10 of scenery witnessed anywhere around the globe. My, were we past cultivated land or what!

After a few more stops, we arrived at Marayoor Township, a small hamlet with little to recommend itself. The Chandana Residency Hotel is likely the only place even remotely approaching luxury, but it was completely booked up for 10 days by a film crew. So we stayed one night at the dusty Marayoor Tourist Home, and another at a similar Inn, neither of which we would recommend, although they did put a safe roof above our heads. The Surya Bhavan All-Vegetarian dhaba was fair enough, although not approaching our beloved Saravana Bhava of Munnar. But what they lacked in culinary style, they made up for with a homely kindness which got Shobhita and Sarvesh going on ghee and rice, introducing them to the "South Indian Meal" (as described in yesterday's blog entry).

We had switched drivers from taciturn (and maniacal) Munish of Munnar to a more even-keeled Abu of the local vicinity. He took us to the nearby Muniyara (stone age burial sites or Dolmens) that dotted the Marayoor landscape, the most notable ones being adjacent to the local high school, which is built into a rock face. It was eerie to contemplate that across continents, about 10,000 years ago, humans buried their dead in a similar manner, in stone chambers decorated by 2-3 stone slabs (standing vertically and horizontally). The fading light of late evening and the mandatory (but gentle) rain prevented us roaming up the rock ridges to enjoy a better perspective of the Muniyara. But nonetheless, the stage had been perfectly set for our encounter with primordial nature at Chinnar Wildlife Refuge, and the Rock paintings and tribal settlements of the region.

How about a few more pictures? Fasten your seat belts ...
http://picasaweb.google.com/chitra0828/Day8SoakingInMoreOfMunnarVenturingIntoMarayoor#slideshow/5396290076958678706